Car Lease vs Buy vs Finance Calculator Canada

Compare the same vehicle three ways — paid for in cash, financed, or leased — including interest, sales tax, fees, upkeep, depreciation, and what the car is still worth when you are done with it.

The vehicle

How long and how far

If you finance

If you lease

Running costs

Include fuel, insurance, licensing, and parkingi

Upkeep and assumptions

Buy vs finance vs lease over 6 years

Buy with cash is cheapest

Over 6 years it costs about $4,754 less than the next best option, after the resale value of anything you still own.

True cost after 6 years

Buy with cash$58,971
Finance$63,724
Lease$79,646
Finance payment$828/mo
Lease payment$782/mo
Cash needed at signing$52,884
True cost per month$819 on the cheapest path
Kilometres covered120,000 km

What this means

Paying cash wins here because it avoids interest entirely, and the return you would have earned on that money is smaller than the borrowing cost. It also means a large sum leaves your accounts on day one.

Cost after resale value

What each path would have cost if you stopped in year 6

Buy with cashFinanceLease
$0$25k$50k$75k$100k0123456

Every point on these lines already credits what the vehicle would sell for, after any loan is cleared. That is why paying cash does not start at the purchase price: at signing the money is gone but you own the car, so what the choice has cost you so far is the sales tax, the fees, and the value the vehicle has lost since. A returned lease leaves you nothing to sell, so its line carries the full weight of every payment. Hover to inspect any year.

Buy with cash

Lowest cost

$58,971

True cost over 6 years, after the resale value of anything you still own

Per month

$819

Per kilometre

$0.49

At signing

Cash you hand over$52,884
Monthly paymentNone

Paid over 6 years

Sales tax$6,084
Fees$1,800
Maintenance and repairs$4,869
Total cash out$57,753
Investment return given upWhat that money could have earned if it had stayed invested.$19,161

When you are done

Vehicle you keep$17,943
True cost after resale$58,971

Finance

$63,724

True cost over 6 years, after the resale value of anything you still own

Per month

$885

Per kilometre

$0.53

At signing

Cash you hand over$5,000
Monthly payment$828/mo

Paid over 6 years

Payments$59,610
Loan interest$11,726
Sales tax$6,084
Fees$1,800
Maintenance and repairs$4,869
Total cash out$69,479
Investment return given upWhat that money could have earned if it had stayed invested.$12,188

When you are done

Vehicle you keep$17,943
Loan still owing$0
True cost after resale$63,724

Lease

$79,646

True cost over 6 years, after the resale value of anything you still own

Per month

$1,106

Per kilometre

$0.66

At signing

Cash you hand over$3,390
Monthly payment$782/mo

Paid over 6 years

Payments$56,275
Lease rent charge$14,801
Sales tax$7,254
Fees$2,300
Maintenance and repairs$4,049
Total cash out$68,004
Investment return given upWhat that money could have earned if it had stayed invested.$11,642

When you are done

Vehicle you keepNothing
True cost after resale$79,646

Buy with cash

Best when you have the cash without touching your emergency fund, borrowing rates are high, and you keep cars for a long time.

What works in its favour

  • No interest at all, and no payment competing with the rest of your budget.
  • You own the vehicle outright from day one, so you can sell it whenever you like.
  • Insurance is your own choice: no lender or lessor can require collision coverage you would not otherwise buy.
  • Nothing to renegotiate. Once the car is paid for, the only bills left are fuel, insurance, and upkeep.

What to watch out for

  • A large sum leaves your accounts at once, and that money stops earning anything.
  • Paying cash can be the worse choice when a manufacturer offers a promotional financing rate below what your savings earn.
  • It can drain the emergency fund. A car is a poor reason to end up borrowing at credit-card rates later.
  • You absorb the whole depreciation curve, including the steep first year.

Finance

Best when you plan to keep the vehicle well past the end of the loan and can put enough down to stay ahead of depreciation.

What works in its favour

  • You end up owning the vehicle, and the years after the loan is paid off are the cheapest kilometres you will ever drive.
  • Your cash stays invested or available instead of sitting in a depreciating asset.
  • No kilometre limits, no wear-and-tear inspection, and you can modify or sell the car at any time.
  • Promotional rates from manufacturers are sometimes low enough that financing beats paying cash outright.

What to watch out for

  • Interest is real money. On a long term at a bank rate it can add thousands to the same vehicle.
  • Long loans leave you owing more than the car is worth for years, which hurts if it is written off or you need to sell early.
  • The payment is fixed regardless of what else happens to your income.
  • Repairs land on you once the warranty ends, exactly when the car is getting older.

Lease

Best when you want a newer vehicle every few years, drive within the allowance, and value a predictable payment over building equity.

What works in its favour

  • You only pay for the depreciation you use, so payments on the same vehicle are usually the lowest of the three.
  • In Canada, sales tax applies to each lease payment instead of the full purchase price up front.
  • The vehicle stays under warranty for most or all of the term, so repair surprises are rare.
  • Handing the keys back at term end removes the resale hassle and the risk of a weak used-car market.

What to watch out for

  • You never own anything. At the end of every term you either start a new payment or buy the car out.
  • Kilometre limits and wear charges make it expensive for long commutes or hard use.
  • Getting out early is costly: most leases require the remaining payments or a stiff termination fee.
  • A leased vehicle you crash or write off is settled by the lessor's terms, and any down payment you made is gone.
Assumptions and sources

Sales tax rates are the combined GST, HST, or GST plus PST normally charged on a dealer vehicle purchase in each province or territory. Some provinces apply different rules to private sales, luxury vehicles, and trade-ins, so confirm the rate on your bill of sale.

Lease payments use the standard depreciation-plus-rent-charge arithmetic dealers use. A money factor quote becomes the rate in this tool when you multiply it by 2,400.

Fuel, insurance, licensing, and parking are optional because they are broadly the same whichever way you pay for the same vehicle: adding them raises every total by the same amount without changing which option wins. Insurance is the one exception worth checking, since a financed or leased vehicle normally requires collision coverage you could skip on an older car you own outright.

Every dollar paid is carried forward at your investment return so that a large cash purchase, a loan, and a lease can be compared on the same footing. Resale value uses your own depreciation assumptions, not a market quote.

What is the difference between buying, financing, and leasing?

Buying with cash, financing, and leasing are three ways to pay for the same vehicle, and they differ in what you own at the end. Cash and financing both end with a car in your driveway that still has resale value, while a lease ends with you handing back the keys and starting again. Financing spreads the price over a loan and charges interest on the balance; a lease charges you only for the value the vehicle loses during the term, plus a rent charge on the money the lessor has tied up.

The comparison is not just about the monthly payment, because the lowest payment usually belongs to the option that leaves you with the least at the end. A fair comparison counts what leaves your bank account, what the money would have earned if it had stayed invested, the sales tax each path attracts, the fees at signing and at lease end, the repairs an older vehicle needs, and the resale value of anything you still own. In Canada, the tax treatment matters too: a purchase is taxed on the full price at once, while a lease is taxed on each payment.

Understanding your results

Over 6 years, paying cash costs the least: $4,754 less than financing it. Counting payments, interest, sales tax, fees, upkeep, and the value of the vehicle you still own at the end, the true cost works out to $819 a month paying cash, $885 financing, and $1,106 leasing.

Replace the defaults with the numbers on the actual quotes in front of you, especially the interest rate, the residual value, and the fees, because dealers price these three paths against each other and a promotional rate on one can reverse the ranking. Then test a shorter and a longer ownership period: financing and paying cash improve every year you keep the car past the loan, while leasing costs roughly the same every year forever. Remember that the paths are not identical in what they deliver, since leasing keeps you in a newer vehicle under warranty, so decide how much that is worth to you before treating the cheapest number as the answer.

How the comparison works

Each path is run month by month over the window you choose. Every dollar that leaves the household is carried forward at your investment return, so a large cash payment and a small lease payment can be judged on the same terms, and whatever the vehicle is still worth at the end is subtracted.

Run cautious examples

Try the deal as quoted, then try keeping the car twice as long, then try driving further than the lease allowance. Leasing costs roughly the same every year forever, while owning gets cheaper every year you keep the car past the loan.

What to verify

Confirm the interest rate or money factor, the residual value, the acquisition and disposition fees, the kilometre allowance and overage charge, and the sales tax on your bill of sale. Dealers price these three paths against each other, so a single promotional rate can reverse the answer.

Frequently asked questions

Is leasing cheaper than buying?

No. Leasing usually has the lowest monthly payment for the same vehicle, but that is because you are only paying for the value the car loses during the term. Over a long period, buying and keeping the same car is normally cheaper because the years after the loan is paid off cost you almost nothing in capital.

Should I pay cash if I can afford it?

Not always. If a manufacturer offers a promotional rate below what your savings or investments earn, financing can leave you better off than handing over the cash. At normal bank car-loan rates, paying cash usually wins because the interest you avoid is larger than the return you give up.

How does sales tax differ between leasing and buying?

In most of Canada a purchase is taxed on the full price at the time of sale, while a lease is taxed on each monthly payment. That spreads the tax out and means you never pay tax on the part of the vehicle's value you do not use. Trade-ins normally reduce the amount you pay tax on.

What is a residual value?

The residual value is what the vehicle is contracted to be worth at the end of the lease. A higher residual means less depreciation is charged over the term, so the payment is lower. It is also the price at which you can buy the vehicle out at lease end.

How do I turn a money factor into an interest rate?

Multiply the money factor by 2,400. A money factor of 0.00250 is an annual rate of 6 percent. Enter that percentage as the lease rate.

What happens if I drive more than the lease allowance?

You are charged for every kilometre past the allowance when you return the vehicle, typically between 10 and 25 cents. If you regularly drive more than the allowance, buying a higher allowance up front is usually cheaper than paying the overage, and buying the car outright may be cheaper still.

Can I get out of a lease early?

Ending a lease early is expensive. Most contracts require the remaining payments or a termination charge, and a lease transfer is not always permitted. If there is a real chance you will need out within the term, that risk belongs in the decision.

What is the risk of a long car loan?

A long loan with little down leaves you owing more than the vehicle is worth for the first few years. That gap matters if the car is written off or you need to sell, because the insurer pays the vehicle's value and you still owe the lender the difference.

Are fuel and insurance included?

They are optional. Fuel, insurance, licensing, and parking are broadly the same however you pay for the same vehicle, so switching them on raises every total by the same amount without changing which option wins. Maintenance and repairs are always included, since an older owned car costs more to keep on the road than a car that is replaced every few years.

How should I stress-test the result?

Change one assumption at a time: the interest rate, the residual value, how long you keep the car, and your annual driving. The ranking often turns on how long you keep the vehicle rather than on the option itself.

See also

Practical pathways

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